Showing posts with label Tonala. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tonala. Show all posts

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Mexico Roundup

Here's a collection of the blog entries I wrote about my trip to Mexico last month.

Days One and Two: Arrival in Tlaquepaque
-Greetings from Mexico

Day Three: Tonala and Tlaquepaque
-Monday in Mexico

Day Four: Tonala and the highway

Day Five: Guadalajara

Day Six: Tonala

Day Seven: Lake Chapala


Where I stayed:

Project Amigo:

Mexican folk art:

Assorted features:

I'd like to thank all the great people I met for making my trip unforgettable. Thank you, as well, to everyone who read my entries. I'm looking forward to documenting my next trip for you!

Addendum 8/15/08: To get another perspective, see my friend Irene's blog, http://picturepoet-irene.blogspot.com/ -- particularly, her account of our failed trip to Tequila.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

GIVEAWAY!!! Treasures from my Mexico trip

It's finally time for the first Gonna Make a Change giveaway! I got the idea for this from my dear blogger friend, Tricia at Sisterly Shenanigans, who does fabulous giveaways for her readers every once in a while.

I have some small treasures I purchased on my trip to Mexico that I will be giving away to a few lucky Gonna Make a Change blog readers. All you have to do to enter the drawing is leave me a comment on this entry or tomorrow's! On Thursday evening, I will pick the winners at random and will post the results here.

So without any further ado, here is the first giveaway item: a folk art chicken handmade by the famous Ortega family!


The chicken is about four inches tall and is signed.

I visited the Ortegas' workshop in Tonala and took these pictures.

Shaping the clay and sanding fired pieces.

Their kilns.

Pieces drying in the sun.


Chickens waiting to be painted.

Hard at work with their pet, the dog and their muse, the duck.


The magnificently colorful painting area.

I will mail the winner of the drawing this beautiful, miniature piece of Mexican folk art. But you have to write a comment in order to have a chance at winning!

Stay tuned for tomorrow, when I will unveil another giveaway item from Mexico!

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Mad shopping in Tonala

I just got back from my shopping adventure on market day in Tonala.

Tonala is a town of artisans located about 5 miles away from Tlaquepaque. Every Sunday and Thursday, hundreds and hundreds of stalls open up along the main road (which is already lined with tons of stores).

I could not take too many pictures because people are very sensitive about having their photos taken, and usually, I only feel comfortable asking after I have bought something from them. I found this out the first time I went to Mexico (Oaxaca in 2003).

But I did get a few shots of some of the hustle and bustle.

Tonala is like shopping on crack! I seriously have never found a place anywhere in my travels that even holds a candle to the kind of shopping you can do here.

What makes it different is 1) the diversity of the handicrafts - you will find all manner of ceramics and pottery, wood crafts, furniture, metal work, glass, and more, and 2) much of the items for sale here were actually made in the area and are made or finished by hand. Of course there is the third part: it is so reasonably priced!

I bought some miniature pottery vessels from this mother and daughter. Guide books say you should bargain, as that is the culture in Mexico. But I just didn´t have the heart to negotiate most of the asking prices! I got a bag full of small pottery dishes and molcajetes for $2.50.

What was so great to see was the family atmosphere, both behind the stalls and in the streets. Now that it is school vacation time, there were even more families than usual out and shopping together. It really is so nice! I was thinking how you don´t find this in a lot of places in the world. In certain cultures, men and women do things separately; and in the US, you see people segregated more by age.

I felt very safe. Even though I kept an eye on my belongings, I never felt like I might be the victim of a thief. Pickpocketing just didn´t seem to fit with the vibe of this area. Also, I didn´t feel like anyone was trying to rip me off. People here seem hardworking and honest.

I went back to the ceramics factory I went to at the end of the artist studio tour on Monday. Did I mention how I found these fabulous duck napkin rings last time? I realized I needed a few more, so I found my way back to the factory store. There I picked up a few more things, including a piece that will be a Gonna Make a Change giveaway! (Stay tuned.)

I also got to see some of the work in action.


Here is a man sanding the bottoms of the ceramic figures. They were so cute, I had to grab a few more!

After that, I ventured back into the labyrinth of stalls and decided to try some food. I saw a stall that had tacos with mushrooms and cheese, among other things, and I decided to try! Again, it was a family group, I believe. The mother and daughter were cooking the tacos and gorditas, and the father was selling beverages. There were tables and small plastic chairs, so I sat and ate. One thing that´s interesting is that food vendors will put plastic bags over plates, so they can serve the food on the plastic and then throw only the bag away after the customer is done. That´s a lot better than styrofoam.

I have to admit that I like more Americanized versions of Mexican food. I just don´t have the taste for authentic corn tortillas. Flour tortillas are where it´s at for me. Unfortunately, you don´t find those in Mexico - or at least, I haven´t yet. My favorite Mexican restaurant is still Charrito´s in New Jersey, and I love me a Qdoba burrito. For all the Charrito´s fans among my readership, if you want to get the same look for yourself that you find in their restaurants, just come on down to Tonala! You´ll be able to find the same glasses, plates, and decorations here. They are truly authentic.

Anyway, after several hours of shopping, I was getting tired. Of course, there was still so much to see...but I had to finish sometime. Before I left, I found a stall where a family was making paper calla lilies.


The had a bouquet of orange ones, and those looked pretty close to my wedding flowers. So I bought those, as well.

I´m not sure how I´m going to fit everything into my suitcase...and I really have held myself back. I could´ve bought a lot more!

This has been a lot of fun, and I would totally recommend it to anyone who even marginally likes shopping.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Tequila was not meant to be

I had a fabulous evening yesterday, sitting around the fireplace at Casa de las Flores.


Not only did I have a great time chatting with Sally and Glenn, but I also met some lovely new people: Brooke from Reno, Patty from the Bay Area, and Irene and Janice from northern California. We had great fun talking about our past travels, particularly because we had been to a number of the same places, including Guatemala! (Sweetie, I´ve gotten a few recommendations for our next trip there!)

Unfortunately, Brooke and Patty had to leave this morning. But Sally, Glenn, Irene, Janice, and I banded together to take a shortened tour of the artists´studios and then a trip to nearby Tequila - yes, the home of the famous beverage.

We started off by visiting the home/studio of the chicken folks, the Ortegas:


Even though I had been there the day before, I found new and exciting things, and I made a few purchases. One might be my Gonna Make a Change giveaway. I still have to decide. There are so many great things here!

Then we went to Vasquez´s home and once again made some purchases. What we all marveled at was how this man is a world-famous painter (he showed us all sorts of books that he has been featured in), but yet he lives so simply. His workshop is his humble home, with a small, dark, living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom opening onto a small courtyard, adorned with several cages of parakeets. He has a back area for the kiln and workspace, and a room (below) for all of his awards and his pieces for sale. He works with his sons and grandsons, and he is so proud of his work.


Here I am with Salvador Vasquez, Irene, Sally, Janice, and Glenn.

After we left Vasquez´s house, our driver, Luis, attempted to take us to Tequila. Unfortunately, there was a large-scale demonstration going on outside a sugar factory on the way from Guadalajara to Tequila. There was no way to turn around, except to risk driving through a gulley that separated the two directions of the highway, so we were stuck!

Apparently, the sugar cane farmers were protesting the fact that the factory had not paid them. As a result, Highway 15 - the only route that leads from this part of Mexico up to the United States - was impossibly snarled with parking-lot traffic. We saw soldiers with rifles in open-backed trucks in the mess of cars, buses, and tractor trailers.

It was an exercise in patience and a whole lot of other things. Irene said it was like how in life you never know what´s coming up down the road. At least we were able to turn around safely, finally, after sitting in the car for over two hours. And it was amazing how, despite the great inconvenience of all of this, everyone seemed to be taking it easy. We only heard one honk, and there were no signs of road rage. People got out of their cars, walked around, bought sodas from a young man who came along with a bucket of soft drinks.

So we did not make it to the town of Tequila. We did not get to go on a factory tour or see a distillery. We didn´t even get to buy tequila souvenirs! But at least we got to come back to Tlaquepaque, eventually, and very much enjoy a delicious lunch that we appreciated much more than we would have before.

Afterwards, we parted ways for the afternoon, and I took a walk around town, relishing my freedom of movement. So much to see here - so many contrasts between wealth and relative poverty. Not to mention the contrasts of the prices of the items being sold in the galleries compared to the prices asked by the artists from whom we bought pieces.

Still, it is such a blessing to be reminded of how much we have in the US and how we should not take it for granted.

On my way back to the B&B I saw this sight, and it made me think of my mom. This one´s for you!

Monday, July 14, 2008

Monday in Mexico

I have already met a number of wonderful people here, including Florence and her husband from Colorado, Glenn and Sally from Tasmania, Richard from South Carolina, and Diedra and her mom from San Diego. Not to mention our wonderful host, Stan! I will be writing more about them later.

Today, I went on an artist studio tour in nearby Tonala. Some pictures:



The Ortega studio. All of the studios were also the homes of the artists and their families.


The Ortegas´pet dog and duck!

A very decorated artist, Velasquez, I believe.




A gorgeous workshop. I´ll have to check the name of the artist. Sweetie, see the plate he´s holding? How´s that for our living room?


I waited out a torrential downpour back in Tlaquepaque at Cantu, where I spoke with the lovely Patricia. Check out all the different kinds of tiles available!