Showing posts with label Tlaquepaque. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tlaquepaque. Show all posts

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Mexico Roundup

Here's a collection of the blog entries I wrote about my trip to Mexico last month.

Days One and Two: Arrival in Tlaquepaque
-Greetings from Mexico

Day Three: Tonala and Tlaquepaque
-Monday in Mexico

Day Four: Tonala and the highway

Day Five: Guadalajara

Day Six: Tonala

Day Seven: Lake Chapala


Where I stayed:

Project Amigo:

Mexican folk art:

Assorted features:

I'd like to thank all the great people I met for making my trip unforgettable. Thank you, as well, to everyone who read my entries. I'm looking forward to documenting my next trip for you!

Addendum 8/15/08: To get another perspective, see my friend Irene's blog, http://picturepoet-irene.blogspot.com/ -- particularly, her account of our failed trip to Tequila.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Jalisco How-to: Part I

If I have whetted anyone's appetite for a trip to Jalisco (that's the name of the Mexican state that Tlaquepaque, Tonala, Guadalajara, and Lake Chapala are in), I'd like to give you some tools to plan a vacation of your own.

When to go: the area has a spring-like climate all year round, so just about anytime is a good time to go. July is technically part of the rainy season; however, it did not rain very much while I was there. I found the weather very pleasant and could see why it's such a popular place to retire.

How to pick a place to stay: I, of course, recommend Casa de las Flores wholeheartedly. But don't just rely on my advice! Check out reviews on TripAdvisor to see what hotel or B&B would most appeal to you. What will really enhance your stay is if you can get personal attention from your host or the concierge, so they can help you plan trips and arrange for a driver or whatever else you need. Ask what services they offer! A driver can often double as an interpreter and for a relatively reasonable price take you wherever you want to go. Luis charged $20/hour with a minimum of 4 hours.


What to wear: as Stan at Casa de las Flores says, the biggest danger in Tlaquepaque is the uneven pavement and streets. So pack some sturdy walking shoes. I bought a pair of Keen Carmel sandals for this trip, and they worked fabulously. I wore short sleeved shirts and jeans for most of the trip, and I felt both comfortable and appropriately dressed. You can dress casually (neatly, though) like you would at home. Pack a sweater or light jacket for the evenings, though, when it can get cool. To not look like a target, don't wear flashy jewelry or an expensive handbag. I swear by using a PacSafe bag for peace of mind.



Language: basic knowledge of some common Spanish words and phrases ("Buenos dias," "Gracias," "Cuanto cuesta?" "Donde esta el bano?") will go far. In high-end restaurants and shops, people will speak English; however, be prepared to communicate in Spanish - at least a little bit - with vendors in the markets. Knowing numbers in Spanish is often necessary for shopping, but you can also gesture for the seller to write down the price on a piece of paper. If you have no Spanish whatsoever, don't worry! If you use a hotel like Casa de las Flores, for a reasonable fee you can arrange to have an interpreter.

Food safety: everyone knows you're not supposed to drink the water. You also need to watch out for ice and any fruits or vegetables that have not been cooked or peeled. But that doesn't mean you can't have fun and eat well! Here are my ground rules: I took chances (had beverages with ice or tried the pico de gallo) only at the best restaurants in town, where they catered to international tourists and well-heeled Mexicans. Prices there are still reasonable by American standards. Street/market food is generally safe to eat if is steaming hot, right off the stove.

These are some initial tips, especially geared towards those of you who have never traveled to Latin America. Stay tuned for some more!

Friday, July 25, 2008

Details in Mexico

I'm going to be wrapping up my coverage of my trip to Mexico on Monday. Before I do, I want to give you all a little bit more of what caught my eye while I was down there. Here are some my favorite pictures that I have not yet posted.

Statue of Pope John Paul II outside the very popular parochial church in Tlaquepaque


Outdoor seating at an El Parian restaurant in Tlaquepaque.


The outside wall of an artisan's workshop in Tlaquepaque


One of the amazing carved doors in Tlaquepaque


Part of a tile mural on Avenida Juarez in Tlaquepaque


Bilingual sign at the Liberty Market in Guadalajara


A very colorful restaurant and shop in Ajijic


Visitors on the shore in the town of Chapala

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Tempting your tastebuds before dinner

First of all, thanks for the entries in my first giveaway! I will be announcing the winner of the folk art chicken later tonight! As for the other Mexican treasures, I have decided to wait a bit longer - once more people are back from vacations - to tell you about the items and have the drawings. So stay tuned!

There are so many things I haven't documented about my trip to Mexico yet, and one of which is the food! Here are some favorites:

This was my first meal of the trip, at El Patio in Tlaquepaque. I had squash blossom soup to start out, and it was divine. The waitstaff brought a host of items to the table before I even got that: greasy (but delicious) tortilla chips, various salsas, bread and butter, and a plate of cucumber, mango, and lime slices. I had fresh-squeezed lemonade to drink.

This place was good, and it featured performances by female mariachis. However, they didn't give me my bill after I asked for it several times over the course of 45 minutes!


Wednesday's breakfast at Casa de las Flores was Eggs Florentine. The eggs themselves were just gorgeous! Stan showed us how to poach them in plastic wrap.


After our aborted trip to Tequila, at least my new friends and I were able to have a great lunch. This is the table at Casa Fuerte in Tlaquepaque. I loved the elaborate guacamole display. And check out the pats of butter in the upper left corner wrapped tamale-like in corn husks!


This was one of my most favorite meals, at the Secret Garden cafe in Ajijic. French toast stuffed with cream cheese and pecans and the most divine fruit salad: succulently ripe mangoes, papaya, and red grapes.

Mmmm...it was a delicious trip. An interesting thing about Mexico is that, like in Spain, they eat their main meal at lunch, between 2 - 4pm. I got used to that, and with the bountiful breakfast in the morning and the dessert in the evening at Casa de las Flores, lunch was the only meal I purchased each day!

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Casa de las Flores

Although I am very happy to be home with my husband, I greatly miss Casa de las Flores! This B&B truly is something very special. Since I didn't get a chance to post an entry just on my accommodations earlier, here is a more detailed account.

Here is my room. It had an extremely comfortable bed and a small sitting area.

There was folk art in the room, including these great pieces over my closet.


My room looked out on the lovely gardens.


Walking from my room, I went to the patio.



This was the site of breakfasts and evening desserts. Pictured below is Friday's breakfast: Chile Relleno - a chile pepper stuffed with three kinds of cheeses and bathed in tomato sauce.


Our host and chef for the breakfasts and desserts was the wonderful Stan. Here, he is showing us a special way to poach an egg.


Every other day, Stan would make a gourmet hot breakfast. The other days, we had a delicious selection of cereal, scrumptious yogurt with toasted pecans, breakfast empanadas, fresh fruit, and juice. Over breakfast was how I met Glenn and Sally last Sunday.


The best part about Casa de las Flores was the people I met, both the hosts, Stan and Jose, and all the wonderfully warm, interesting, and well-traveled guests.

One evening was quite chilly, and a bunch of us sat around the fireplace in the reception/sitting area. Everywhere you look there are different kinds of art.



I definitely hope to return, and I would love to keep in touch with the new friends I made. Here are Barry and Bill from Arizona, after we had dinner at El Nahual my last night.


My room cost about $111 USD total per night, and that included breakfast and dessert, as well as coffee, tea, and purified water available all day, use of a communal laptop or free wireless, and lots of great travel advice and personal assistance from the hosts and staff. The connections I made and the conversations I had, of course, were priceless. I know you can definitely find less expensive places in Mexico, but given everything Casa de las Flores offers, I think it's a heck of deal!

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Casa de las Flores in Tlaquepaque

I´ve got time today for a bonus entry! I´m continuing to enjoy staying at Casa de las Flores, an outstanding B&B in Tlaquepaque, just outside of Guadalajara, Mexico. Last night, I met some great new people: Barry and Bill from Arizona and Penny and Susan all the way from Alaska. Unfortunately, Penny and Susan are already gone, but some new guests have arrived, and I hope to talk to them tonight.

Here are some photos of Casa de las Flores.

The indoor living room, complete with super-tall fireplace.


The path to my room.


A gathering nook.


View from my room.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Tequila was not meant to be

I had a fabulous evening yesterday, sitting around the fireplace at Casa de las Flores.


Not only did I have a great time chatting with Sally and Glenn, but I also met some lovely new people: Brooke from Reno, Patty from the Bay Area, and Irene and Janice from northern California. We had great fun talking about our past travels, particularly because we had been to a number of the same places, including Guatemala! (Sweetie, I´ve gotten a few recommendations for our next trip there!)

Unfortunately, Brooke and Patty had to leave this morning. But Sally, Glenn, Irene, Janice, and I banded together to take a shortened tour of the artists´studios and then a trip to nearby Tequila - yes, the home of the famous beverage.

We started off by visiting the home/studio of the chicken folks, the Ortegas:


Even though I had been there the day before, I found new and exciting things, and I made a few purchases. One might be my Gonna Make a Change giveaway. I still have to decide. There are so many great things here!

Then we went to Vasquez´s home and once again made some purchases. What we all marveled at was how this man is a world-famous painter (he showed us all sorts of books that he has been featured in), but yet he lives so simply. His workshop is his humble home, with a small, dark, living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom opening onto a small courtyard, adorned with several cages of parakeets. He has a back area for the kiln and workspace, and a room (below) for all of his awards and his pieces for sale. He works with his sons and grandsons, and he is so proud of his work.


Here I am with Salvador Vasquez, Irene, Sally, Janice, and Glenn.

After we left Vasquez´s house, our driver, Luis, attempted to take us to Tequila. Unfortunately, there was a large-scale demonstration going on outside a sugar factory on the way from Guadalajara to Tequila. There was no way to turn around, except to risk driving through a gulley that separated the two directions of the highway, so we were stuck!

Apparently, the sugar cane farmers were protesting the fact that the factory had not paid them. As a result, Highway 15 - the only route that leads from this part of Mexico up to the United States - was impossibly snarled with parking-lot traffic. We saw soldiers with rifles in open-backed trucks in the mess of cars, buses, and tractor trailers.

It was an exercise in patience and a whole lot of other things. Irene said it was like how in life you never know what´s coming up down the road. At least we were able to turn around safely, finally, after sitting in the car for over two hours. And it was amazing how, despite the great inconvenience of all of this, everyone seemed to be taking it easy. We only heard one honk, and there were no signs of road rage. People got out of their cars, walked around, bought sodas from a young man who came along with a bucket of soft drinks.

So we did not make it to the town of Tequila. We did not get to go on a factory tour or see a distillery. We didn´t even get to buy tequila souvenirs! But at least we got to come back to Tlaquepaque, eventually, and very much enjoy a delicious lunch that we appreciated much more than we would have before.

Afterwards, we parted ways for the afternoon, and I took a walk around town, relishing my freedom of movement. So much to see here - so many contrasts between wealth and relative poverty. Not to mention the contrasts of the prices of the items being sold in the galleries compared to the prices asked by the artists from whom we bought pieces.

Still, it is such a blessing to be reminded of how much we have in the US and how we should not take it for granted.

On my way back to the B&B I saw this sight, and it made me think of my mom. This one´s for you!

Monday, July 14, 2008

Monday in Mexico

I have already met a number of wonderful people here, including Florence and her husband from Colorado, Glenn and Sally from Tasmania, Richard from South Carolina, and Diedra and her mom from San Diego. Not to mention our wonderful host, Stan! I will be writing more about them later.

Today, I went on an artist studio tour in nearby Tonala. Some pictures:



The Ortega studio. All of the studios were also the homes of the artists and their families.


The Ortegas´pet dog and duck!

A very decorated artist, Velasquez, I believe.




A gorgeous workshop. I´ll have to check the name of the artist. Sweetie, see the plate he´s holding? How´s that for our living room?


I waited out a torrential downpour back in Tlaquepaque at Cantu, where I spoke with the lovely Patricia. Check out all the different kinds of tiles available!

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Afternoon walk

Just got back from a walk around town and about to take a siesta! Here´s a photo of a house that I found irresistable.

I am in Tlaquepaque, and this town is absolutely full of color.


Greetings from Mexico!


I arrived yesterday, and am in the process of completely relaxing! Here are some photos for now.









Female Mariachis!